Today it almost felt like we were not on vacation, since we were up at 5:00 a.m. However, as our tired brains started to become alive, we knew it was still vacation and we were off to explore some other islands in the Turks and Caicos Islands archipelago. It was only a short drive from our condo to the walk on ferry in Leeward. The ferry only fits about 20 people but the first ferry of the day, at 6:30, was far from being full. The sun was just coming up but the air was still hot and humid due to the rains over night. The sky to the east was full with the yellows and oranges of the sunrise but to the west was a different thing. It looked like another thunder storm forming. Oh well we were off and mother nature would just have to do her best to stop us. Luckily we were heading away from the brewing storm.
The ferry ride was only 25 minutes travelling along the coast allowing us to see six cays including Parrot Cay where many stars go... private location. The ferry took us right into North Caicos.
North Caicos is often referred to as the "Garden Island" due to the fact it gets more rain and has better soil, so well... things grow :) The Island is about 106 sq kilometres and has 2500 people on it.
We met our rental car rep on the other side and after getting things settled we were on our way.
We decided to head over to Middle Caicos first and then see the North on the way back. There is only one way in and the same way out. The ride would take us down the one road for about 25/30 minutes to Middle Caisos. Well "one road", our arses (is that a word?). I don't think that many tourist go over to these Islands since the map and what little road signs they have don't work out so well together. Oh well we were there for the adventure and we soon figured out finding "the adventure" might just be the adventure!
We got a bit lost in a very small village called Kew. We did take it as a sign to at least see stuff, so we did. It was very early in the morning, maybe 7:30, when we saw this lady on the road seeming to be waiting for someone. Now before you naugthy minded people think she is a early morning hooker, think again. She is Ms Henry from Jamaica but living on North Caicos now. We asked her for directions to the main road to Middle Caicos. She said that she was going close to Middle Caicos and if we wanted to give her a lift (in a very strong Jamaican accent) that she could show us the way. So we did and she did. A very nice lady and she left us with a "God Bless you" and we were on our way.
The trip to Middle Caicos was pretty non exciting. Mostly woods and the odd peak of the ocean. We did go by a nice area where we took a few pictures of wild Flamingos eating. That was cool.
Before you knew it we were at the causeway. Now let me tell you about this causeway... it still hasn't been fixed much since it was almost wiped off the map by two hurricanes in 2008. As we travel over the broken pavement and/or dirt (with lots of potholes) we survey the damage. It looks like the concrete and rebar have been blown up in places with TNT. It is amazing the power of the hurricanes considering the water around the causeway is very shallow. Well it took us about 15 minutes to get over this area since the road was so bad. Probably 10 minutes longer than it should have if the road was good.
Middle Caicos is 124 sq kilometres and is the biggest Island in the chain. However, it only has about 300 residents and 2000 mosquitoes for every sq metre, as we found out at our first stop.
The first stop was just over the causeway and it was called Indian Cave. We don't know why they call it that as we only stayed long enough to take 3 quick pictures and loose about a cup of blood to the starving little bastards! It was kind of funny to see us running back to the car like we were being chased by killer bees. As luck wouldn't have it our OFF was in the other car parked at the ferry.
Our next stop was to be what they say "Arguably the most beautiful spot in the Turks and Caicos"! Well they really push that part but they can't make a sign for tourist to find it.... so we drive right by! LOL
We did find a sign to another planned stop, Daniel's Cafe. Along with a cafe it has 60 artisans. So we are thinking to purchase some nice local stuff. Hmmmm the signs from the main road are very small and hand done. I guess they think instead of driving by we would be walking and reading signs ... but we did manage to catch it in time to turn. A few more signs pointing down different roads and we are getting close. Then another small intersection and NO SIGNS! Okay it is either one way or the other... and we choose the right way but it is off the road a bit and has no signs so we drive right by it. Do you see a trend here? But after we turn around and read in another book it at least tells us the colour of the buildings... and we find it. But it's too early... after 9:00 and they are not open. Oh well... Daniels Cafe is on the beach and there is a nice trail and the mosquitoes are only partly hungry. Our walk is in the direction of Mudjin Harbour and we can see it. It is a few kilometres away but it looks nice. The trail also has tons of sounds... the short bush around us is FILLED with red land crabs and lizards. The crabs are about the size of sardine cans with legs or a bit smaller and the lizards are 15 cm (the bigger ones). We walk a bit and then take a few pictures and head back to the car.
Our next stop was Bamberra beach and then the very end of the road, Lorimers Landing. Pretty uneventful and really kind of boring after seeing the colours of Chalk Sound. Plus the flying vampires were back in full force at Lorimers Landing, so we didn't stay that long.
On the way back we managed to find the road into Mudjin Harbour. Luckily we called Naggi, the Couchsurfing guy we met last week, who lives on North Caicos, he told us how to find it. We had to turn into a private lane to the Blue Horizon Resort. (but still had public access)
Once there, it was well worth all the hype! The stone path from the parking lot took us down on the beach for some nice views and a sea cave. After a little walk on the beach we went back up and followed the path along the cliffs. The views from here were amazing along with the nice warm sea breeze. When I had spoke to Naggi he said once we go on the top we would find a surprise! Hmmm what the hell could it be? At the top there was a large sculpture of praying hands kind of pointing out to sea. Could he think we were religious and this was the surprise... wow how wrong! But as we followed the trail and looked at the amazing views I noticed the trail and the stone split and the very end. I thought maybe the trail turned into a big toilet where you could just straddle the hole... and well go...
Nope to our surprise it was steps leading down inside a cave...
The cave was open at the bottom to give us a nice beach. But it was still pretty cool.
This was for sure worth the trip over the causeway!
It was now time to head back to the causeway and back to North Caicos.
Our first stop was Bottle Creek another small village with a pretty good view of the shallow Bottle Creek bay. After here the next stop was Flamingo Pond. I knew by reading in the guide that this location has 1000s of birds but they were far away. So to get a good shot you had to have a "good" lens. Well they were there but they were just like pink dots on the horizon. My lens is good but not that good. You could tell they were flamingos however.
From here we were to call Naggi to get directions to where he works. He works for the government on their farm. Here they grow and transplant native plants, some being endangered. After a few calls for directions we were there. When he said turn down the dirt road, pass the wired fence and down to the buildings... I was thinking the Experimental Farm like home. He must have thought I was a bit slow when I asked him how will he know when we arrived. Well the buildings were just old small sheds and green houses... in the bush/fields. It would be easy to tell a car had come there since it wasn't like a big city government building :)
Naggi is an amazing fella! He is a botanist, so already he has wisdom that I would love. He gave us a tour of the gardens and explained a lot of things about these rare and common local plants. We got to meet one of his co-workers and purchased some fruit and vegetables from him. This one papaya was amazing. It was a kind we had never had before and it was so sweet and kind of tasted like brown sugar.
After the tour he took us back to where he lives and showed us the grounds and what his landlord was raising. I bet you would never guess in a million years. The caged pen was small, like what you were expect to find locals raising chickens in. Actually it even smelled like chickens... but IT WAS NOT CHICKENS! It was large blue land crabs. They grow them and sell them to market, where in the off season, they can get about $7.00/crab. These crabs can be found in the wild but they are only out running around during the summer and then they head back down into the earth. That is when they are worth more. We did actually see a few in the wild on our walks earlier.
After taking a few pictures and Naggi took us in his home garden and showed us tons of plants as he was talking about them. We got to taste some cool herbs, from lemongrass to this one called Goats something or other that kind of tasted like summer savory with the power of 10. Then we saw his poultry pen... chickens of all ages, ducks, geese and a guinea hen. All in all his location was pretty cool and we enjoyed our short stay with him! Oh before we left he had to show us one more of his animals. The last remaining donkey on North Caicos, Liza. At one time many donkeys roamed wild.
After we left Naggi we headed back towards the ferry for a late lunch. Then with a bit of time to kill we headed down to the beach for a walk. As luck would have it we found a nice conch shell, totally different than the kind we found over on Provo.
We arrived back on Provo and had a short drive back to the condo. The last few hours were very hot so we couldn't wait to get into the pool. After a quick swim and clean up we headed down to Turtle Cove to find a happy hour. We went back to the Shark Bite restaurant on the dock and enjoyed the evening and the sunset. Lynn the other Couchsurfer joined us in the evening for supper and that is how the day came to a close.
July 7
Today was a very warm and sunny day and a perfect day to just do nothing. We had breakfast and then went for a swim. The pool deck, the pool and our ereaders were pretty much it until late afternoon when we went to pick up a few things before our departure on Saturday. It was so nice to just read, swim, sun ourselves, drink and eat. Now that is vacation!
A look at the causeway to Middle Caicos
This is just a little look at what the hurricane did
A view of Mudgin Harbour from Daniel's Cafe
The wild flamingos
This is it... the end of the road at Lorimers Landing
One of the sea caves at Mudjin Harbour
Mudjin Harbour
Greg looking at the weird waves at Mudjin Harbour
A view from the trail at Mudjin Harbour
What did you say Greg... move a little further back?!!!
The lower sea cave at Mudjin Harbour
From inside the sea cave
More inside the cave
This is the steps down into the sea cave
Naggi and Francis at the Gov't farm on North Caicos
The caged crabs
Naggi, Liza and Greg
Near Three Mary Cay, North Caicos
mmmm Vacation drinks!
Pictures from our pool area at the condo (our unit is the second from the left on the bottom)
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